Thursday 11th to Monday 15th November 2010
Atacama Desert is one of (if not the) driest desert in the world with an immeasurable average rainfall per year (practically none) but in some parts they say up to only 40mm of rainfall is received each year. The last time they saw rain was in April this year but normally, if it does rain it will in January/February. They’ve only had 40mm this year. Vegetation is scarce but we were fortunate to see an occasional patch of green and a trickle of water or two.
We flew into Calama, in the North of Chile – a copper mining town… it felt like we were arriving in the middle of nowhere with a landscape so vast and barren. Then we travelled by bus for around 1 hour to San Pedro de Atacama where we stayed for 4 nights. The scenery along the way was something like travelling through the outskirts of Coober Pedy (in relation to the barren landscape only).
San Pedro de Atacama is situated 2,443 metres above sea level (m.a.s.l) and we visited places that are above 4,000 m.a.s.l. For this reason we had to acclimatise to the altitude on our first day and not go anywhere past San Pedro de Atacama. We stayed in a hotel called La Casa de Don Tomás (the house of Tomás). Not able to drink the tap water (full of minerals that would not be good for the human system) the hotel supplied bottled water in our room or whenever we requested at no extra charge. We asked about the excessive plastic being placed in the rubbish - we’re told it is all recycled.
We found this area to be similar but so very different to the desert at home (we know that’s a major oxymoron but it’s the only way we can describe it). The differences relate to altitude, volcanoes, food, people, culture and obviously the language. The things we found similar were some of the indigenous history, meaning behind petroglyph rock art, landscape, dust, dryness, dirt roads (some corrugated), early morning touring and tourist traffic.
Atacama Desert is one of (if not the) driest desert in the world with an immeasurable average rainfall per year (practically none) but in some parts they say up to only 40mm of rainfall is received each year. The last time they saw rain was in April this year but normally, if it does rain it will in January/February. They’ve only had 40mm this year. Vegetation is scarce but we were fortunate to see an occasional patch of green and a trickle of water or two.
We flew into Calama, in the North of Chile – a copper mining town… it felt like we were arriving in the middle of nowhere with a landscape so vast and barren. Then we travelled by bus for around 1 hour to San Pedro de Atacama where we stayed for 4 nights. The scenery along the way was something like travelling through the outskirts of Coober Pedy (in relation to the barren landscape only).
San Pedro de Atacama is situated 2,443 metres above sea level (m.a.s.l) and we visited places that are above 4,000 m.a.s.l. For this reason we had to acclimatise to the altitude on our first day and not go anywhere past San Pedro de Atacama. We stayed in a hotel called La Casa de Don Tomás (the house of Tomás). Not able to drink the tap water (full of minerals that would not be good for the human system) the hotel supplied bottled water in our room or whenever we requested at no extra charge. We asked about the excessive plastic being placed in the rubbish - we’re told it is all recycled.
We found this area to be similar but so very different to the desert at home (we know that’s a major oxymoron but it’s the only way we can describe it). The differences relate to altitude, volcanoes, food, people, culture and obviously the language. The things we found similar were some of the indigenous history, meaning behind petroglyph rock art, landscape, dust, dryness, dirt roads (some corrugated), early morning touring and tourist traffic.
A typical street corner in San Pedro de Atacama -
with narrow dirt tracks as roads in a grid like pattern throughout the village. The buildings were mostly contructed in a mud-brick style (adobe) thus retaining authentic aesthetics of the desert area.
The night comes alive in San Pedro de Atacama after tourists return from all their excursions of the day. Restaurants and shops are all open late - in fact dinner is mostly served from 8.30pm onwards.
We were told that the meals weren't too large -
These were 2 entrees but one would definitely
have been enough!
have been enough!
Our first tour took us to Salar de Atacama (Atacama Salt flat), Toconao & Altiplanic Lakes, taking us to an altitude of 4,100 m.a.s.l. First we visited Tocanao, built out of white volcanic stone; it only has a few buildings (including a church) and a small population that practice their own traditional beliefs combining with Catholicism. Tocanao also has a fresh water supply allowing them to grow their own fruits & vegetables so pretty much self-sufficient.
Laguna de Chaxa (Lake Chaxa) in the “Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos” (Reserve of the Flamingoes”) is where the shutter-bugs became very active (us of course). We were in the Eastern (Soncor) sector of the Atacama Salt Lake, about 62kms from San Pedro de Atacama and at an altitude of 2,300 m.a.s.l. The surface is a thick crust of salt crystals that has a rough texture and is grey in colour. In the lake a large number of pink flamingos feast on a pink coloured shrimp found in the salt lakes of the Atacama Desert, this is how they get their pink colouring; what they eat is full of beta-carotene. There are 3 species of flamingo found here… Andean flamingo (yellow legs and feet), Chilean flamingo (has pink knee-caps) and the James flamingo (paler in colour) - in flight or stretching their wings allowed us to see their magnificent colours.
Laguna de Chaxa (Lake Chaxa) in the “Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos” (Reserve of the Flamingoes”) is where the shutter-bugs became very active (us of course). We were in the Eastern (Soncor) sector of the Atacama Salt Lake, about 62kms from San Pedro de Atacama and at an altitude of 2,300 m.a.s.l. The surface is a thick crust of salt crystals that has a rough texture and is grey in colour. In the lake a large number of pink flamingos feast on a pink coloured shrimp found in the salt lakes of the Atacama Desert, this is how they get their pink colouring; what they eat is full of beta-carotene. There are 3 species of flamingo found here… Andean flamingo (yellow legs and feet), Chilean flamingo (has pink knee-caps) and the James flamingo (paler in colour) - in flight or stretching their wings allowed us to see their magnificent colours.
Lagunas Miscanti y Miniques (Lakes Miscanti & Miniques) also in the “Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos” is where we got to see some vicuñas – a native animal that only lives above 3,000 m.a.s.l. The vicuña is like a small llama and the wool is extremely valuable. Vicuñas are not farmed, they are herded from their natural environment and the wool is collected then traded - a huge number of vicuñas is needed to collect a small amount of wool and apparently there are often fights in the Andes during this time.
This area was spectacular; we could have stayed there the whole day.
Lunch was at Socaire, a quiet little village that seems to thrive on the tourists popping in for a bite to eat or buy some craft as a small souvenir (which we did).
This area was spectacular; we could have stayed there the whole day.
Lunch was at Socaire, a quiet little village that seems to thrive on the tourists popping in for a bite to eat or buy some craft as a small souvenir (which we did).
A vicuña
El Tatio Geysers is where we toured on our 3rd day here. This took us above 4,300 m.a.s.l. and for this we had to get up in time for a 5.00am departure. Well before sunrise we travelled 1 hour & 45 minutes to the geysers, 2,000 metres higher than San Pedro de Atacama, to view sunrise with geysers actively spurting their steam and boiling water to the surface. We were one group of many to do exactly this. At the time we arrived it was -10˚C so we were rugged up for this one.
Returning to San Pedro de Atacama we stopped off in another little village town that relies on tourism for their economy. It’s here that we bought and ate llama meat in the form of a kebab and an empanada – both quite delicious. Llama meat was a little chewy but the flavour was unique and rather tasty.
They warned that the geysers would smell of sulphur but we were not overwhelmed at all - certainly not like it is in Rotorua in New Zealand anyway.
A warming hot chocolate - warmed up in one of the geyser. Hot chocolate going in and steam going out Roy's ears! (OK, so that's just a geyser in the background)
Steaming Coreena
Back to our hotel at around 12noon for a well-earned rest before heading out for the afternoon to Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) at 4.00pm. Moon Valley is named for its resemblance to the moon’s surface.
During this tour we also took in the sights of massive sand dunes, the rock formation of “The Three Maries” and an historic salt mine. We also visited “Death Valley” mistakenly named as such due to language translation – apparently the locals were being told that it looked like “Mars” and they understood that it was the word meaning “death” (Marte). The bus was parked a little down a hill and around a corner… we walked the rest of the way. WOW, the view was amazing. It was extremely windy though and would lift a light person off their feet if not careful. We then took in sunset over Moon Valley and Licancabur Volcano with a glass of Chilean wine or some strawberry juice (quite common in Chile).
A very long day but so totally amazing and worth every early minute.
During this tour we also took in the sights of massive sand dunes, the rock formation of “The Three Maries” and an historic salt mine. We also visited “Death Valley” mistakenly named as such due to language translation – apparently the locals were being told that it looked like “Mars” and they understood that it was the word meaning “death” (Marte). The bus was parked a little down a hill and around a corner… we walked the rest of the way. WOW, the view was amazing. It was extremely windy though and would lift a light person off their feet if not careful. We then took in sunset over Moon Valley and Licancabur Volcano with a glass of Chilean wine or some strawberry juice (quite common in Chile).
A very long day but so totally amazing and worth every early minute.
Our Moon Valley sunset
The next day, a (late) start of 9.00am; a relaxing morning taking a tour to Laguna Cejar (Lake Cejar). We were spoilt with a private tour, just the two of us with a driver and a tour guide. Upon arrival at the lake we were able to see more flamingos, exactly what we wished for as we felt we just didn’t get enough time during the first tour to observe them closely. And we were the only people there – superb. It was so peaceful and quiet and this opportunity was certainly a highlight.
Then… it was off to take a swim in one of the Lagoons at Laguna Cejar – well Coreena did anyway… again we were the only ones there, having the place to ourselves for around ½ an hour or so.
Coreena: The lagoon contains 40% salt and is very deep… no sinking here. It was so peaceful and quiet… to just float on the surface was so relaxing – although strange as I had no control over the floatation, I could stand in the water and still have my head above water without paddling or kicking to keep me there; laying on my back looking up to the sky and not having to move to keep myself on the surface was something that I’d never experienced before. And because we were the only ones there it was one of the most peaceful experiences ever.
Then… it was off to take a swim in one of the Lagoons at Laguna Cejar – well Coreena did anyway… again we were the only ones there, having the place to ourselves for around ½ an hour or so.
Coreena: The lagoon contains 40% salt and is very deep… no sinking here. It was so peaceful and quiet… to just float on the surface was so relaxing – although strange as I had no control over the floatation, I could stand in the water and still have my head above water without paddling or kicking to keep me there; laying on my back looking up to the sky and not having to move to keep myself on the surface was something that I’d never experienced before. And because we were the only ones there it was one of the most peaceful experiences ever.
Roy: Coreena was finding it difficult to get into the water at first because apparently the water was very cold (or so she says). It was mentioned by our guide that the water would be only around 18˚C. I managed to get a couple of interesting photos, including one of Coreena floating on the surface without the water rippling because she didn’t have to move to stay afloat. This made it look like she was floating in the sky because of the blue colour of the water.
Our final tour here took us to see Hierbas Buenas Petroglyphs and Rainbow Valley - an altitude of around 3,000 m.a.s.l. The petroglyphs were carved into the rock by Atacamans representing significant objects in their culture... the most important is the llama so this is the figure we mostly saw. The area of the petroglyphs was a central meeting place as the “caravans” would move across the country for trading of the llama. The llama can be used for the wool, meat and as a mode of transportation - all very important.
This area is also the location of many an historic celebration and ceremony that was part of their culture.
This area is also the location of many an historic celebration and ceremony that was part of their culture.
It was then onto Rainbow Valley (sounds familiar to those of us from Central Australia) … this is where there are a variety of colours on the surface the rock - another area that just looked like we were on another planet - all a result of volcanic activity leaving behind its traces. There was a stream running through this area providing the opportunity for some vegetation to thrive - we came across an oasis that just looked so out of place where we were. The red is clay, the grey is volcanic ash, the green is ?Pluton? (sorry, can’t quite remember that one). There was even a little shrub that had medicinal purposes - called Rica Rica (not sure of the spelling) used as herbal tea and good for upset tummies.
So that was the end of our touring. We took a walk up the street and ate dinner of empanada in a quaint little cafe “Cafe Esquina”. On Monday morning we took one last walk up the street before taking a transfer back to Calama airport for our flight to Buenos Aires via Santiago.
Surrounding us on this journey were lots of volcanoes… Wherever we went we could see the Volcano of Licancabur which soars 5,916 m.a.s.l.; quite impressive from all angles. We believe that this is a dormant volcano but we could see other volcanoes that were actively releasing steam/volcanic gases from their tops.
The presence of volcanoes means that what may have looked like sand was often fine volcanic ash and salt so the environment was very dusty.
Surrounding us on this journey were lots of volcanoes… Wherever we went we could see the Volcano of Licancabur which soars 5,916 m.a.s.l.; quite impressive from all angles. We believe that this is a dormant volcano but we could see other volcanoes that were actively releasing steam/volcanic gases from their tops.
The presence of volcanoes means that what may have looked like sand was often fine volcanic ash and salt so the environment was very dusty.
The area also contains minerals including lithium that is mined by the locals.
During our visit to the Atacama Desert we saw these animals… considering there are not too many animals out there; we did alright and were quite surprised to see the ones that we did because of the lack of vegetation etc.
- Lizard on the salt flats
- Llamas
- Flamingos
- Zorro (fox)
- Viscacha (like a rabbit)
- Variety of birds including ducks, geese, sparrows, sandpiper looking ones
- Guanaco (above 4,000 m.a.s.l.)
- Vicuñas (above 3,000 m.a.s.l.)
- Lots of stray dogs in the township itself (not out in the desert)
This is a cactus that from a distance it looks like spinifex and is often growing in a circular fashion.
Viscacha blending
in with the
natural landscape -
note the bushy tail.
Llamas in town & Llamas away from town
Guanaco with Mount Licancabur in the background
Still in search of the Emperor Penguin… too warm and dry for them in Atacama!
Hi Guys,
ReplyDeleteLooks like you are having a fabulous time. I love your photos, Steaming hot chocolate for Roy, and a weightless Coreena. Love it! And I love the look of the food - was that really an entree!!
Happy travels...Kirsten and Aidan